38 • Tabara

I set out just before 8.00 this morning, the temperature was 43°F and said to fall to 38° F at sunrise. I stepped out into a fog or mist I thought was only localized in the low-lying village, but climbing above the village the mist persisted. At sunrise there was an feeble attempt by the sun to breakthrough but it failed and the remainder of the walk was in and out of the fog/mist with the temperature remaining at low to mid 40°F.

It was a pity as this is one of the most beautiful legs of the journey, crossing over the lake and even walking alongside it for a while, unfortunately I saw very little. The 18 km to the first village seemed long because of it being so cold and it was with great joy, suddenly, the mist lifted to reveal the outskirts of the village of Faramontanos de Tábara. I found the coffee bar I had stopped at with Jesus and Jose in 2014, full of memories. Four years ago the three of us sat outside in the sun, this morning I was very happy to sit in the bar sipping coffee and having tostada and marmalada.

The huge church at the center of the village has been turned into a museum of monastic life featuring manuscripts  preserved from the Monastery of San Salvador which was here in the 9C. All that exists is the scriptorium 12C which became a church and now a museum, the books are from the 10C, unbelievably detailed.

A pleasant day full of memories, surprises moving in and out of mystery of light and mist.