49 • Casal Rural

For every step down yesterday afternoon, this morning demanded a step up eventually the Camino returned to her old self of oak, pine, and eucalyptus forests. The mist cleared the sun came out but was very little warmth, the walk had a ‘post storm’ quietness to it, fragrant with pine…

47 • Silleda

A day of extreme beauty. I had breakfast at 08:00. The temperature, 4°C and overcast and with the wind blowing. Certainly the coldest day on this Camino. I had planned to walk 18 km to the town of Lalin and spend the night there, giving my shins a chance to recover. After an initial section on the road, the Camino veered off again through enchanting oak forests and farm…

46 • San Cristovo de Cea

I headed out about 08:30, it had just stopped raining, was cold and misty. I made my way through the town, across the beautiful Roman bridge and began a long climb up and out of Ourense. I didn’t realize Ourense, because it is 100 km  from Santiago, is a popular place to begin walking the Camino as it enables people to qualify for Compostela. This morning,  pilgrims…

45 • Ourese II

Yesterday afternoon I packed a bag with shorts, slipslops and went off to the local Roman Baths still in existence in the old part of the town. I enjoyed my visit there four years ago and was determined to repeat the experience. Once again it was wonderful, full of old dears and a few young locals soaking in the water and catching the last of…

44 • Ourense

I immediately recognized and remembered the city as one I enjoyed 4 years ago. It has a quiet, feel about it. I had a light lunch and asked for more ice. I have continued the regimen of ice and arnica and remembering there is a hot thermal bath in the middle of the town, free for locals, (hot springs going back to Roman times). It opens at 17:00. I hope to be…

43 • Laza

Three words describe today, “elevation, road, panoramic vistas”. I had to pay for the third as 2/3 of the walk was elevation and climbing and 80% of today’s walk on the road. The combination of the climbing and road has left me with what I think is the beginning of a shin splint as I have a pain in the front of my leg which made the last third of the journey, which was…

41 • Puebla de Sanabria

It was cool and overcast but had a distinctive Sunday feel to it. Very little traffic and the path crisscrossed the highways a number of times. In between, walked through oak forests in autumn colors, on patches of Roman road and through five quaint little villages. The terrain and soil has changed dramatically, so too has the architecture of the houses in the villages, everything is…

39 • Santa Corya de Tera

A most interesting and intriguing day. I set out early, it was extra dark, being overcast and threatening rain. The sun struggled to break through at sunrise, whether it was because of the cold or last night’s rain or a mixture of both, but as I walked it was as if every bush or tree emitted a fragrance. It was like walking through the perfumery, an aromatic experience, almost intoxicating. I found out the name of the bush that seem to be most fragrant, it’s called…

38 • Tabara

I set out just before 8.00 this morning, the temperature was 43°F and said to fall to 38° F at sunrise. I stepped out into a fog or mist I thought was only localized in the low-lying village, but climbing above the village the mist persisted. At sunrise there was an feeble attempt by the sun to breakthrough but it failed and the remainder of the walk was in and out of the fog/mist with…

36 • Montamarta

Blue, gray, wet Monday if ever there was one. Even though the hostel where I was staying, was right on the Camino it still took a half an hour or so to get through Zamora and then another hour through the industrial area. From the moment I stepped outside it began to drizzle and then by the time I had cleared the industrial area it was raining steadily. At the first village, where I…

35 • Zamora III


34 • Zamora II

Tomorrow marks the end of the Camino Lavente.  I now have the choice of either linking with the Camino Frances, which was my first Camino and is very busy or with the Camino de la Plata which I walked two years ago. I decided to take today and tomorrow as rest days and decide what the last leg of this Camino will look like…

33 • Zamora